That is one of my favorite quotes to use when the question of “knowing all” comes up. Hey, being a Raton Colorao, one is expected to know a lot! I think the phrase applies to many things in life – and I can certainly put “travel” in place of “work” and have it still be relevant.

El Raton High Above Taipei

Since this is my final post in what has become my travel series on my trip to Asia, I thought it would be good to convey what I have learned from my first trip to Asia (without overly waxing poetic) – a summation if you will. As I write this (albeit 5 months later!!!!!!), I really want to see if the trip and my experience met my expectations from one of my earliest posts. Hopefully, you will learn something too…

SPOILER ALERT: There is a video at the end of this post I filmed at the beginning of my trip that turned out to be very prophetic…I forgot I even had it until I looked at my FlipCam recently.

So in rapid fire (well, not so rapid fire) fashion, here are my takeaways – complete with pretty pictures and videos for those of you more visually inclined. Remember to click on the pictures for extra detail – especially the food pics!

1. RAPID FIRE QUICK TAKEAWAYS

• The Taiwanese people eat 447 times per day and are not fat – this is more than likely due to what they eat (or what they do not eat), lack of processed food, and a more active lifestyle. See the Pork Sung Rice Ball below…
• Taipei has 3 million people, has cutting edge technology, and has the most productive workforce in the world (Well, probably because they work like dogs and get very little vacation. One of my MBA classmates gets about 8 days off per year…yikes)
• Singapore has 4 million people, has amazing diversity, and is the cleanest and safest city in the world – and it’s not even close. You walk around mesmerized and amazed at the pristineness (is that even a word? If not, it should be).
• Asian countries kick our asses when it comes to use/adoption of technology – period. We are just now getting to things they have had there for years
• I have never seen a culture that is faster to adopt trends than the Taiwanese culture; be it hairstyles or fake eyelashes (I can do without the fake eyelashes, but it was hysterical)
• Taipei has one of the 4 largest National Museums in the world (Louvre in Paris, British Museum in London, Met in NYC) – the National Palace Museum



Waiting for a mid-day snack in Gongguan area of Taipei. Lots of small, fresh meals may be the key to the skinny population - although Western Delights are coming...

...Like a Mister Donut - there are tons of them in Taipei, why did I think they were only a Delaware staple?

A Pork Sung Rice Ball with Egg - Self Explanatory I think. I need to open a stand here in USA to sell these! Contents include Rice, Pork Sung, Egg, and Chinese Donut - all for about $1 USD

"Clean and Pristine" sums up Singapore. Wait - is that a leaf on the ground? Someone is getting fired...

There are many cultural influences in Singapore - this is near Arab Street

National Palace Museum in Taipei

2. STEREOTYPES OUT THE WINDOW

This is less of a learning for me, but more of a teaching I hope to get across to everyone. Many people have visions of Asia – and they are usually of the ones in movies (such as Vietnam war movies), or of the depressed areas of Mainland China (h-p) as seen by the NBC cameras during the Beijing Olympics (Again, Mainland China). Visions of rice patties, dirt roads, and outdoor plumbing permeate our minds, but that is not the Asia I saw. Do the poor, dirt-road laden areas exist? Sure, of course – but those scenes also exist in Arkansas, Mississippi, California, and New York.

Taipei is one of the great, under-appreciated treasures of the world – a large, cosmopolitan and modern city that is still affordable. It has a mix of the high-end and the blue-collar – both in food and other cultural indicators.

Singapore is an unbelievably modern city with a diverse and extremely well-educated population. Both cities have incredible modern conveniences and no shortage of connectivity/influence both to and from the rest of the world.

And look out – Asian markets are some of the fastest growing in the world – especially the wine market. Hong Kong just passed New York as the number one auction market for wine. Taipei is nowhere near that level of sophistication, but wine bars are creeping up – and wine is becoming more popular there. Singapore already as a huge wine scene – given the amount of money and Brits there.

The countries I visited are WAY ahead of us in some areas (Read: Mass use of Technology & Mass Transit), and a bit behind in others (Read: Work/Life Balance) – but that is the experience you want to have when you travel – the ability to both teach and learn.

PS – The new breed of Asian kids coming up: TALL - another stereotype soon to be gone.

Spotted this place on our way back from lunch at Din Tai Fung dumpling restaurant - indicative of the transforming culture in Asian countries. Hmmm - coffee, wine, music - three of my favorite things. It's a great spot that is now one of my favorite places on Earth.

Yes, scenes like this still exist in the outer villages (this near Danshui in the northwest part of Taipei), but you have to take them as a collective with an entire culture - not as a stereotypical point of view.

When I say "Asia" or "Taiwan" - a scene like this usually comes to people's minds...

...But Taipei has a great mix of modern and traditional - this is at the National Theater

El Raton in front of Taipei 101 - until recently when the tower in Dubai opened, it was the tallest building in the world.

Modern buildings in Singapore

Diverse Architecture in Singapore

Cultural Sidebar

Why do I keep making the distinction between Taiwan and Mainland China? Well, to put it mildly, they don’t get along…at all. The Taiwanese will not be rooting for the cute little underage/falsified document Chinese gymnasts at the Olympics. Picture the worst of American Classism or Racism – then add in the worst redneck thinking, tack on a little bible-belt religious fanaticism (think abortion clinic bombers-but worse), and you pretty much have how they feel.

Even though both countries have the same “Chinese” origins, they really are different (I liken it to the divide that currently exists between Republicans and Democrats in the USA – aka – The Two Coasts vs. Everyone Else. We are all technically Americans, but many of us have NOTHING IN COMMON with one another). So if you go (to either country), just remember not to lump them all into one or make a blanket statement. The most important thing to remember is that Mainland China is communist, Taiwan is not – BIG DISTINCTION!

Subway Side Note:

I have said this before, but taking the train is a treat in Taipei and Singapore. In Taipei they showcase art hanging from 2-story ceilings in the subway stations. They also have galleries – yes galleries – of paintings in the corridors. How long do you think that would last in NYC? Singapore has expensive elevators that would rival any big city office building – and the marble? Forget about it, unbelievable nice. You could seriously eat off the ground in the Singapore subway station.

Also, how do you feel about complete climate control? I thought about my last week in NYC (before I moved back to San Francisco) at the subway station by my apartment in NYC (the 1 Rector St. station) was FLOODING and leaking from the roof. The 90 degree NYC temperatures made the NYC subways a sauna.

Not that I love the idea, but if you absolutely need to talk on your mobile phone while on a train, you can do so in Taipei and Singapore. They system is so new (within the last 20 years for Taipei), the technology is aligned with the infrastructure. Also, most subway stations have bathrooms – as in bathrooms you would want to use; as in bathrooms without communicable diseases; as in bathrooms with attendants constantly cleaning them. To give you an idea, most, if not all subway stations in Taipei and Singapore have the services of a “main station” in NYC like Grand Central (stores, bathrooms, etc.). Check out the video of the subway as well as some pics:

Hanging Art in a Taipei Subway Station

Let's see: Expensive marble, high-end elevator, supremely clean...office building? NO! Singapore Subway Station!

3. PEOPLE STILL TALK TO EACH OTHER

SHAMELESS PET PEEVE ALERT:

Asian’s use cell phones more than any other culture – and they are SERIOUS texters – but not when they are around others. Sure, when they are alone (especially workers in retail stores) they are constantly on the text. But when they are together with their friends, they actually engage in interpersonal communication.

We have all seen the recent articles here where waiters in restaurants are having a hard time navigating the cell phones on the tables. We can be talking to someone in front of us and then check our BlackBerrys for updates – as in (ANYTHING THAT IS ON MY PHONE IS MORE INTERESTING THAN YOU FUCKFACE). We have all been guilty of it – especially since we all feel the pressures (perceived or not) from a work perspective to stay connected. Or, in my case, when my low threshold for boredom checks in – and I am somewhere where I do not want to be or not with someone I want to be with (Like how I justify it??) . More often though – its more of a laziness. We can learn from this – but to me its another example of the sloth that is becoming more prevalent in our culture – we are too lazy to even talk…

I have said in the last few years that I should have been a chiropractor (I know, don’t get me started on that pseudo medicine bullshit too) since our postures will be all out of whack given the one-had-stretched-out-at-a-distance poses we use when banging on our phones.

4. I LOVE TEA

There, I said it. For as big of a coffee freak that I am the tea in Taiwan is amazing. To learn more, take this Taiwan Tea Primer

I spent a day in Jioufen, about 90 minutes outside of Taipei. Jioufen has two sides: Aside from being a claustrophobically crazy – absolutely insane food stall experience – it is also a serene retreat if you want to go to a Tea House. The teahouses are another one of Taiwan’s great singular experiences. A place where art, relaxation, conversation, and ritual meet. The pomp and circumstance associated with tea can be amazing – and I enjoyed every bit of it. It’s amazing to learn how the tea is grown (high mountain tea is best) and the painstaking effort to pick it (best are hand harvested, whole leaf teas – VERY LABOR INTENSIVE).

Interestingly enough, I did not start drinking coffee until my twenties, and I, along with my grandmother Bev, drank a lot of Tetley growing up – eventually graduating to the English Breakfast and Earl Grey types. I wonder if Bev would be digging the Taiwanese tea as much as I do? I’m sure she would…

El Raton shows his sophisticated tea side in a traditional teahouse in Jioufen, Taiwan

A misty day in Jioufen

A barrel of tea from a Jioufen stall market

The claustrophobia of the Jioufen Stall Markets

5. AN APPRECIATION FOR CULTURE – AKA: THINGS THAT WOULD NOT FLY IN USA

In previous posts, I have pontificated on the virtues of eating at stands that in Taipei or Singapore that, because of our overly-stringent health department/code rules in the USA, would not and do not exist in America. After a while, they were the only places I wanted to eat. But it does not stop there…

One of the things that I have learned and am passionate about as I travel is not just an appreciation – but a true understanding and immersion into the cultures I throw myself into. So yes, the food sometimes freaks people out – but you have to understand it is how people live and act in a certain culture. They do not make $100-$200 trips to the grocery store, they shop day to day (or in Taipei, not at all, since eating out is so cheap). I am sure Asians come to this country and see how we eat and have their own “WTF” moment at the stuff we consume, case in point – the “Double Ridiculous” from KFC:

The latest invention from KFC - the Double Ridiculous

What else would not fly in America? Check out the photo below:

Normal life in Taiwan, but calls to Child Services and a lawsuit waiting to happen in USA. While this may frighten most, scooters are the way families get around and, more importantly, get through traffic.

6. HOLIDAYS VIEWED FROM A DIFFERENT LENS

I spent both Christmas and New Years in Taipei – and I have to say it was a bit refreshing. Sorry, I am not including our latest national holiday, the day after Thanksgiving, as one.

SHAMELESS SOAPBOX RANT: Only in America do we take the day after giving Thanks, go out at midnight or 3am to start shopping – and have people trampled at Wal-Marts. How fucked up is it that we do not have a day of service as opposed to a day of shopping?

Back to Christmas – well, in a country that is 90%+ Buddhist, Christmas… not so big. Sure, they threw a bone to the Christians with some trees, etc. – but all in all, you had no idea it was a holiday. Since Christmas was on a Friday – kids were in school – YES SCHOOL!

But what defines a holiday? Do we really celebrate the true meaning of Christmas in America? (Or any holday for that matter? Do we really remember the true meaning of Veterans Day, Memorial Day, or Labor Day – or is it just another day off for us?). Definitely food for thought (so to speak)…

Christmas Day wrapping outside a mall

Yes - even in the subway they throw a bone to the Christians

7. I STILL TRAVEL WELL

One of my concerns was that it had been several years since I had left the country – and almost 10 years since I had been to a country where I did not speak or understand the language (well, less if you count parts of south and Midwestern USA).

I hate to say something so cliché like “it’s like riding a bike…or having sex…once you learn…” – but its true. Once I got off the plane, I was in full traveler (as opposed to tourist mode). I sought out the back road places, stayed away from the tour buses, and was all in all considered a local by many. I more than stretched my comfort zone with food and activities, and I’m glad to see I have that quality and mindset after not venturing out for a few years. It does go back to the Bourdain adage that Travel Changes People – and once you’ve changed, hopefully you don’t go back.

El Raton with old friends and making new ones. To my right, Yu-Yuh Lu - a classmate from MBA school who I had not seen in 11+ years!

New Years Eve at Vinyl wine bar in Taipei - I befriended the owner (to my right) and my "American" presence apparently influenced other patrons!

And – Funny thing about language: even though I speak ZERO Mandarin, after a while you almost start to understand. It’s the tone and intonation in peoples voices that can almost have you following a conversation.

I recorded this video at the beginning of my trip. While I did not know it at the time, it is a capsule of what turned out to be one of the best experiences of my life. I have many great memories I will take with me from this adventure – I look forward to many more - caporegime of world travelers.

Well, referring to my trip in December & January, so far, “Asia Trip” has equaled “Taiwan” – at least until now.

I went to Singapore for a few days as well – I know, I know, its hard to tell, as there is nary a mention of that trip here on my blog. Why is that? Well, as Randy Jackson would say, “It was just alright for me Dog.”

A view from the Haji Lane area towards downtown Singapore

Singapore is a mix of Chinese, English, Malay (Indian) cultures. So, if you like food, you are in luck. And don’t get me wrong – I like it, and Singapore IS the cleanest and safest city on Earth. For example, I swear this happened:  

As we were walking down the street a leaf fell from a tree (we being me and my French-Polynesian tour guide extraordinaire Sofia. By the way, I never met a French-Polynesian tour/language guide who did not speak French or Polynesian, but that is another story…).

RIGHT AS IT HAPPENED, a city sanitation worker came with a broom and dust pan and scooped it up. UNREAL! I was certainly afraid to chew gum (outlawed in most areas) let alone spit or walk with dirty shoes.

The whole point of this trip was for me to stretch my comfort zone – but Singapore was not that much of a stretch. I now understand why many of my Caucasian friends love traveling there. The national language is English and there is a HEAVY British influence (the banks, the wine lists that are heavy on Bordeaux and Champagne, the architecture). Probably more important, the food in the mainstream areas is recognizable – steak frites in many joints, and, as Keanu Reeves on Celebrity Jeopardy would say, eleventy billion wine bars. And, no, not everyone knows Kung Fu.

Compared to Taipei, uh, Singapore was expensive! Anytime you get a large banking population, beautiful people, things are bound to be expensive. Lots of beautiful cars and women – but have to wonder how the everyday person affords it there?

Well, to get a good idea of how the everyday people of Singapore live, you must visit the hawker stands or food courts. They are the only cheap eats there. Great meals to be had for $2-$4 USD – with the Singapore specialty being the Hainanese Chicken Rice – basically just boiled chicken and fragrant rice-but boy, is it good.

Chicken Rice, A Singapore Specialty, from Tian Tian's in Maxwell Food Center - which, conveniently, was next to my hotel.

Yes, this is a menu. A board at a street food stand in the Chinatown section of Singapore

The first thing I had (after a nap) when I arrived in Singapore - ahhhhhh!

Strange Fact: Most places do not have napkins. You have to buy them - not kidding. Another way they keep the place clean.

The street food in Singapore is good…BUT…after being in Taipei, I think Singapore lives off its reputation (This is kind of how I feel about NYC – but that is another post). The reputation is mostly deserved, but somewhat over-hyped by all the Travel Channel “Singaporeati” (aka Bourdain and Zimmern waxing almost nauseatingly as to how good the food is) and, in this travelers opinion, is not quite up to par with Taipei when it comes to street food. I think Singapore also benefits hype-wise from its warmer climate HOT ASS CLIMATE (Note: I thought all the talk about the heat was bullshit given I had lived in Florida – nope, not bullshit – it is REALLY HOT there).

SHAMELESS CELEBRITY INTERACTION & NAMEDROPPING

A few weeks ago, my good wine friend John Wight (go see him at Luce in San Francisco) was visiting NYC for his birthday. We hooked up for a Monday lunch at Les Halles since they do 50% off wine Mondays

He asked me if Anthony Bourdain has anything to do with the place anymore, and as I was explaining that Bourdain was nothing more than a marketing mouthpiece for Les Halles – no sooner did I get that out then in walked Tony to do a shoot at Les Halles…oops…

Anyway, as we were finishing lunch, Tony made eye contact with us and I said hi to him and that I had just been to his favorite Chicken Rice place in Singapore (Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice in the Maxwell Road Food Center). We got instant street cred for that and John being in the biz, and he ended up talking with us for 10 mins and could not have been nicer.

Bourdain has been to Singapore dozens of times and waxed poetically about it, so I had to stand up for Taipei and say that I thought it was better and that a show in Taiwan was needed!

Back to Singapore positives – there are lots of cool areas, and you can definitely see the diversity. Sometimes the look and feel radically changes from one block to the next: A bargain & food hunter’s delight of a Chinatown seems to suddenly stop after you cross South Bridge Road and from there you magically walk into a few blocks that look like the French Quarter in New Orleans. A few train stops away (and let me tell you – it is a flat out joy to take the metro in Singapore – unbelievably modern, clean and fast – even the escalators go twice as fast), you are around Haji Lane and a heavy Indian influence. The NY Times did an interesting piece on Haji Lane – so I really wanted to go. It’s a cool and a strange spot at the same time – a tiny artist’s community that none of the artists can afford. Boutiques that sell $50 USD t-shirts as well as cold drinks since, as I mentioned, it is excruciatingly hot during the day in Singapore.

The Tanjong Pagar subway station in Singapore. I know, I know - looks like corporate offices - unbelievably clean

Small shops on Haji Lane. A hip artists community that artists cannot afford. This shop here sells both clothes and drinks - a product of the hot climate.

Plenty to do outdoors in Singapore - this is near Haji Lane

One of the "elventy billion" wine bars in Singapore. This area is right across South Bridge road from Chinatown and reminds me of New Orleans. When you go to a wine bar there, I hope you like Champagne or Bordeaux - a product of the huge British influence there.

Singapore has a lot of great things going for it – cool hotels (I stayed at the Scarlet boutique hotel), good shopping and interesting places to eat. You may find this to be a“backhanded compliment” to the food in Singapore, but the best thing I had was the pulled tea in an Indian section of town…Trust me, it’s an experience. It has nothing to do with the great oolong tea in Jeofen, Taiwan, but, believe it or not, hot pulled tea on a hot day is refreshing.

Pulled Tea in Singapore

If you do what I did – and only eat one “uber nice” meal, Singapore can be affordable. Aside from the great food courts and hawker stands, Singapore has a burgeoning high-end dining scene – new takes on traditional dishes. I went to one of the places I read about on my last night, Wild Rocket, and it was really good. It is definitely off the normal path, but because it was a little bit out of downtown in a quiet, residential district, you could have been anywhere in USA eating that meal.

At Wild Rocket, one of Chef Willin Low's signature dishes - laksa pesto linguine with quail eggs (I think we were hoping it had prawns, but it didn't). The waitress tried to keep us from ordering it saying it was an acquired taste, but it was delicious.

Lamb (and meat in general) taste so much better in Asia - its the real stuff with strong flavor.

You feel like you could be in any good restaurant in USA when you are dining at Wild Rocket - photo by Sofia - French/Polynesian guide extraordinaire

Also, the Buddhist temples in Singapore have some really interesting collections – and are good to visit even for those less than religiously oriented (like me).

A Buddhist Temple in Chinatown

Statue outside temple in Chinatown

Interestingly enough, after I left Singapore I was unsure if I would want to go back – hence the Randy Jackson quote at the beginning. But, as the time has passed and I write this, I realize that I did not see everything I may have wanted to see (I was only there for 3.5 days) and I owe it another chance. I now remember the cool galleries and shops in a more positive way – as well as the great gift-buying in Chinatown.

Thought this was hilarious...so true, not just of Singapore - of everywhere!

It was a much-needed excursion when I needed it (sorry, inside reference) and it was cool to get to a place you have always heard about and wanted to see – and after all, isn’t that what travel is all about?

But the funk I have been in – it could be the post-vacation blues, the normal back-to-work blahs, but I think its more a withdrawal or heaviness that cannot be explained…well, except by the great Rodney Dangerfield:

I get a lot of pressure and this pressure is like a heaviness. It’s always on top of me, this heaviness. Other people wake up in the morning, “Ahh new day, up n’ atom!” I wake up, the heaviness is right there waiting for me…sometimes I even talk to it, I say “Hi heaviness.” And the heaviness looks back at me, “Today you’re gonna get it good boy…you’ll be drinkin’ early today.”

Some days I felt like Denzel in the first 20 seconds of this clip from the 1990 Movie Mo’ Better Blues - YES IT HAS BEEN THAT BAD (You can stop after 20 seconds, but I recommend forwarding to the 3:00 mark to hear Cynda Williams sing “Harlem Blues”) sigh…

Back on topic – what happened to me in Asia? Where did I slip? Why am I craving the sights and the smells of Taipei – yes, even the less than stellar air quality had a mystical effect on me somehow. What is the cause of the withdrawal  - what am I missing? The people? The culture? The ease of getting around? The friendliness on the wallet? Well, from my previous food posts, you know I am a huge fan of the food in Taipei, but it goes deeper than that.

No, the Shilin Night Market in Taipei is the most guilty for my withdrawal symptoms.

Entering the Indoor Pavilion at Shilin Night Market - the smells are already surrounding you at this point

The Shilin Night Market is a crazy, hyperactive, and magical place – a singular cultural event. It is a dream for people with short attention spans (like me), because it is an orgy of visual and gastronomic delights and heavenly odoriferous emanations (If I may be so Right Guard about it- wait for it, it comes at about the 16 second mark) – and one thing looks better than the next. Located right in Taipei (it even has its own subway stop) the Shilin Night Market is a place where both locals and tourists frequent – and the lines between both become blurry, since everyone is giddy with excitement at the food and shopping possibilities. You can get anything you want there: clothes, shoes, exotic foods (snake soup, fried milk, chicken butt, etc.), as well as the not-so-exotic foods like beef noodle soup, oyster omelette, etc.

Just in case you forget, your stomach will tell you where to get off

How do you navigate the market? It’s tough…Some nights, you go and sample many small bites (My first night there, I sampled 15 different items). Other nights, you plan to do the same thing, but end up eating too much at one place and are full the rest of the night (My second night there, I did not make it past the first stand I went to). If that happens, there is plenty of walking around to do to view the shops and all the hawker stands.

What amazes me most, is the constant traffic. I was there on both a Tuesday and a Sunday, and it was crazy-crowded both times.

As you get off the train, you can see (and smell) the action

There is always plenty of traffic and activity around the Shilin Night Market. Here, they are about 7 scooters wide!

Here is a quick video I shot that shows some of the craziness:

And for you shoppers – do you really want to know where the cheap clothes and inexpensive jewelry comes from? While there were some pricey boutiques, most of the shopping is of the bargain variety – and they have to store those clothes somewhere…take a peek (Disclaimer – this is for fun, and it’s not as bad as it looks – nor is it indicative of Taipei – I do not want to create any false stereotypes ):

What was also interesting to me was the amount of kids there – kids of all ages, but especially the 12-15 year old range kids. It seems that a normal routine is to hit the night market after school (since Taiwanese kids seem to always be in school, “after school” can be a variety of times in Taiwan. Some kids go to “double sessions” and can get out very late) and hang out with your friends. It makes sense – since its an inexpensive way to be entertained (You can eat well for $3-$4) and the place, while constantly mobbed, is a very safe environment. I suppose it is the equivalent of going to the suburban mall in the states, but just not as exciting. Plus, the kids in Taipei are eating much healthier and much fresher food.

What will I do to feed my need (or as I said previously – my addiction?) Will I get over my withdrawal symptoms? Possibly – but at least I have my memories and dreams of Shilin Night Market – and you can’t take those away from me.

Here is a sample of some of the sights with some commentary:

Seats are at a premium

The fruit looks and tastes incredible - highlighted by Lian Wu (The red apple looking fruit)

How good does that look?

They had lots of different meats and vegetables here at this Yakitori Stand. You pick what you like and they cook or finish it on the grill for you. I had some great tofu in a stick and Chicken butt...yes, CHICKEN BUTT. It tasted like...well..chicken (Photo by Sofia - French/Polynesian Guide Extraordinaire)

Handful of mini-crabs served like french fries in a bag. Soooooo GOOD and so crunchy - about $3 - one of the 15 things I ate my first night at Shilin Night Market

Mobbed would be one way to describe it here

Just another of the many places to eat that would not be open in USA. This place was great - and you could shop for luggage while you dine

Long lines mean the place to be - but sometimes you can sneak into a good one without a wait

It's a grill...it's a table...it's a plate...it's all of the above. This spot was so cool They cook and serve all in the same place. The cook's "mise en place" was the most organized and streamlined I have ever seen

With all this food (and there was more to come) - you can see why I did not make it past this place on my second trip to the market. Total cost was less than $10 for 2 people.

For those with a sweet tooth - you will not be ignored either. These are candied strawberries

I have found a place where you can order concert tickets and pick them up at this place

I have found a place where you can order books (or anything else) and pick them up at this place

I have found a place where you can order food from a restaurant and pick it up at this place

I have found a place where you can pay your utility bills, cell phone bill, credit card bill, or your parking tickets

I have found a place where you can have your photos developed

I have found a place that handles all postal-type services

I have found a place where you can get espresso, cappuccino, and lattes just like Starbucks makes them (using the same machines)

I have found a place where you can refill your subway transit card

I have found a place where you can buy t-shirts, deodorant, all sorts of food and drink – including beer, wine, and sake.

I have found a place, that in a sea of darkness – is the light…

In the movie Gladiator, Maximus says, "Rome is the Light." Well, if he were coming back from Jeoufen, Taiwan at night in the rain, he would say, "7-11 is the Light"

Ladies an Gentlemen – I give you… 7-11

Yes – THAT 7-11.  In Taiwan, there are over 4,000 of them, and it seems like 3,998 of them are in Taipei. In fact, I have been in one area where I could see three of them without moving.

But, this is not your USA 7-11…these are clean, well-run and well-oiled machines. The first thing you will notice is they are well-staffed – probably 3-4 employees in a space 1/3 to ¼ the size of a USA 7-11 (Actually, many places in Taipei are like this – very low employee to customer ratios). The door makes a bell noise when opened and everyone – and I mean everyone – is greeted by the staff on the sound of the door with “Huan-Yin-Kuang-Lin” which means “Welcome”.

The next thing you notice is what bright, happy, and clean these places are – eat off the floor clean…Morris Day clean…your high school girlfriend clean (ok, maybe not your high school girlfriend). Even in remote villages, these places are pristine. Once you start to look around, you notice an overwhelming variety of things to buy – from beer, and snacks (some the same as the US, some different) to shirts, drugs, and the obligatory condom collection.

But when I found out they use the same coffee & coffee equipment as the Starbucks in Taipei (and NO I have not been to a Starbucks here – but more on that later) – and then I found out you can pay your bills and get food delivered there, it finally made sense to me to call this a “true” convenience store – and I’m shocked no one has tried this in the USA.

All over Asia, 7-11’s are a true phenomenon…in Thailand, they exist as air-conditioned relief (although I have never been to Thailand). In Singapore, I am unsure about the bill-paying part, but they are equally dense – just not as nice. But as everything in Singapore, they are spotless (In fact, I saw a Singapore employee do what I have NEVER – and I mean NEVER seen a convenience store employee do) – he was going through perishable items and discarding ones that were past their expiration date…wow.

And since they are on just about every corner, they are great places to buy the beer for the BYOB, “would never exist in the USA” food stalls…

Ladies and Gentlemen – Huan-Yin-Kuang-Lin to 7-11, TAIWAN STYLE!

Addiction… Webster’s defines it as:

1 : the quality or state of being addicted <addiction to reading>

2 : compulsive need for and use of a habit-forming substance (as heroin, nicotine, or alcohol) characterized by tolerance and by well-defined physiological symptoms upon withdrawal; broadly : persistent compulsive use of a substance known by the user to be harmful

Addiction can come in many forms – sex, gambling, drugs, alcohol, money, people, etc. And while I am sure many of us have been addicted to one or all of the above, my current addiction stems around Taipei…and the FOOD!

A selection of goodies at a typical street market stall in a Taipei "non-tourist" neighborhood

I call this "Duck and Pork Belly Heaven." Unreal - its funny since Pork Belly is fast becoming the "most overdone dish" at many restaurants and it is commanding high prices. It is basically uncured bacon and is considered a simple, almost peasant food in Taiwan. You can get a HEALTHY portion of it for about $3US - as opposed to $12-$16 in restaurants in USA.

Lobster and Fish Balls ready to be fried

A Crab about to become someone's lunch

As the title says, Taipei – and Taiwan in general is not a place to visit if you do not like food. Eating is not just for sustenance here – it is the national pastime. The food here is some of the most amazing I have ever had. Every meal I eat seems to build on the other, yet I can never seem to get enough, and you never seem to get full until you have eaten the equivalent of two lunches or dinners at one sitting. And cheap? You can survive here and eat really well on less than $10-$15 per day – no joke.

CULTURE

So how to describe Taiwanese food? Most people here cannot describe it – but it basically boils down to somewhat of a Chinese regional cuisine. Culturally, Taiwan has influences from all over – Chinese with some Japanese (actually, a lot of Japanese influence), European, USA (lots of things are in English here) and some Malay peppered in. They have their dishes they are famous for such as stinky tofu, beef noodle soup, pork sung (think dried, shredded pork), oyster vermicelli soup, and many offally-inspired side dishes – but you can see the influence of the world in the food around the city. But like many Asian countries, it’s the condiments that get you – the fresh ginger, the red chilies, and the variety of sauces…oh, but the chilies, they are feeding my addiction.

Do not let the name "Stinky Tofu" fool you. This stuff is stone cold delicious - think fried, crispy aged cheese that is WAY healthier for you. This is a shot of the best I have had in a neighborhood near Guting MRT station - fried extra crispy with some of that red chili sauce and transport yourself to a better place - and btw, this was about $1.40 US.

A fresh meat stand in a Taipei neighborhood Street Market. Do not let the lack of plastic wrap or the occasional attached head or appendage scare you. This food is fresh and delicious (pork tastes like pork and chicken tastes like chicken in this country - as opposed to the mass-produced and literally watered down versions we eat in USA. Go watch Food, Inc. for further explanation) and we need to remember where our food comes from - and it's not from the Shop Rite...

To get an understanding of the food here, you first need to think of the demographics…Taipei has about 3 Million people in the “city proper” – but probably more like 6 million people if you count the “near surrounding areas” of the city. Taipei has interesting contrasts (more on this later) and great diversity – both at the high-end (Michelin Star restaurants & nice places to go where foreigners frequent) but, for me and many others, Taipei is all about the street food and the night markets (Note: The Night Markets are so incredible, I think they will need their own post).

The scene at the Shilin Night Market - on a weeknight. There is no need to cook at home when food this good and this cheap is available. If only fast food in the USA had this price/quality ratio

An a-ha moment is when you see that most people eat every – and I mean every – meal out of the home. But the difference between here and say, NYC, is that you can eat every meal out and still save money (an average dish here costs about $2-$3 US) – whereas New Yorkers spend all their money on rent & eating out (this is one of the dichotomies of life I never understood – logic would dictate that if you spend a lot on housing, you would eat in to save – but New Yorkers DO NOT COOK ).

Sorry, my lack of attention span gets the best of me again…as I was saying, street food is the way to go here. It’s fast, cheap, and made with only the best ingredients. It’s depressing to think how crappy our fast food is back in the USA and see how fresh and (mostly) un-processed the food here is.

Skewered delights at a Night Market

I had a fantastic dinner at a “higher end” place here, but I have basically resolved to only dine at places that would not exist in the USA because of “health department” reasons. That is one of the misperceptions of the street stands/holes in the wall. Trust me, if they served bad or spoiled food or someone got sick, word would spread  faster than Chlamydia at Tiger Woods house through the neighborhood and those people would go out of business.

Food Stalls like this would not exist for "health concerns" - but thousands of happy people eat at places like this every day in Taiwan - the food is good and cheap

Prepping Tofu on the streets like this would definitely be "no bueno" in USA

Open air kitchen = great wonton soup. I have to eat it here since this would not exist in USA unless it was Grandma's house

The most interesting thing for me is that many of the street stands, or even the small neighborhood places you can go in and sit down, do not sell beverages AT ALL (obviously, many places do sell drinks too, but…). So, most places are a literal BYOB! So, the drill is usually to place an order somewhere for food, then run to the corner to get a beer and bring it back to your seat!(usually at one of the 4,000+ 7-11’s here – more on that later, and that number is not a joke).  By the time you return, the food is there. High quality and high care. People do strange caring things here – they wipe bowls, they make sure you are comfortable. I had coffee beans ground from a bag – they re-sealed the bag and wiped off the outside of the bag – people REALLY care here…

A little shark, some wonton soup (note: The Wonton Soup in Taiwan is so much better than regular Chinese Wonton Soup - the wonton are so thin and light in this version, they melt in your mouth). Food was $3; Beer was $2 - experience was priceless

BREAKFAST

Ok, this is not the Starbucks breakfast with the zero-trans fat butter less (DO NOT GET ME STARTED) commissary gummy croissant (although Starbucks is here in Taipei – and always crowded). No, breakfast here can be anything – pastry, pork sung rice ball, soup  – anything. There are no set rules here – any food can be had at any time of the day, and no one will look strangely upon you. But, some typical shots are below.

Egg Pancake with Ham - very typical breakfast. Add sweet sauce and chili - and look out! About $1.50US. My favorite is this with Pork Sung

Grilled Daikon cake - so good with the chili sauce

The people of Taipei are fiendish about their coffee. I mean it is a real sickness here. For a country that has all but perfected tea, they are obsessed with coffee. There are some high-end shops here selling serious equipment (siphon coffee, drip coffee, etc.). Overall, the coffee here is good if they use the right machines

Lunch/Dinner/Anytime

Have I mentioned they like to eat in Taiwan? At all times of day, hunger will strike you. I will post the night market one on its own, but that is why the night markets are so popular – people are ALWAYS HUNGRY. Anyway, here are some random food shots – ENJOY!

Lard Rice - Yes, that's what I said...it's Taiwanese for "Fucking Good!"

The beef and pork jerky is too good here - this is some kind of crazy glazed bacon that is "blackout good"

The duck does not suck in Taiwan

Have I mentioned that the duck is good here?

Braised Pork Knuckle - fall off the bone good! About $3US

Chinese Medicine Soup - the broth is magical! Add noodles, ginger, duck, and beef and you will start to develop the same addiction I have. The soup is Dong Quai root based, but is darker than most I have seen here in US - I must find out the recipe...

El Raton with the proprietor of the Medicine Soup place - she was shocked that someone like me (aka whitey) would like the soups as most "like me" did not (the soup has a distinct flavor from Dong Quai root and lots of fresh ginger)...I got that a lot in Taiwan - everyone was concerned for my eating well-being, fearing that foods wold be too spicy or not to my palate.

So…if you are not hungry – STAY HOME!!!!

I have had the pleasure of flying airlines like Czech Air, Iberia, Aer Lingus, KLM, British Airways, and Virgin Atlantic (Shameless Side Note: I try to exclusively fly Virgin America in the USA because they are HANDS DOWN-NO ARGUMENT the best “domestic” carrier…but probably only because it is run by Richard Branson – and its USA HQ is outside of San Francisco – my favorite city in USA).

One of the reasons the service is better on foreign airlines is because working for an airline (flight attendant, etc.) is an honorable profession in other countries – and in some instances, is a very difficult job to get. For example, the staff of Iberia Airlines of Spain are mostly males and their hiring process is very competitive. Also, you still find that many European and Asian flight attendants have been to and/or graduated from University.

Now, there are some positive “exceptions” with the US-based airlines, but overall they suffer from disgruntled and underperforming cabin staff that are too used to the old ways – and too locked into the Union-run environment (Don’t even get me started on labor unions – they were needed in this country 60+ years ago when we had lousy, if any, labor laws, but today they are total consumer-raping bullshit cliques that encourage sloth in workers). Granted, US-based flight attendants have seen their pay and hours decreased over the years, but they still make 2-3 times more money than their superior overseas counterparts. I used to be the biggest defender of one of my favorite US airlines, US Airways, but after the last few flights with grouchy flight attendants who do nothing but complain about co-workers in front of the customers (picture that chain-smoking, grumpy aunt you have), it is getting much harder to defend them. (El Raton jumps off the Soapbox…)

Now, on to my to my new favorite airline – EVA Airways. All I can say is, WOW! EVA Airways is a Taiwan based airline that I flew from San Francisco to Taipei. Since this was my first flight to Asia – and since the fare difference was only $200 US, I decided to bump up to Elite Class – basically like US domestic first class, but with a foot rest that comes up about 40 degrees.

Well, when I checked in for my flight, something went pleasantly wrong. The agent handed me my boarding pass with a seat number different from what I reserved – plus a pass to get into the EVA Airways Lounge at SFO. It was a pleasant surprise, as I had some last-minute business to attend to for my real job and the lounge has free WiFi and food/drinks.

Then, as I boarded the plane and showed the flight attendant my boarding pass – she gracefully led me to one of the nicest seats I have seen – in their Premium Laurel Class!
I double checked my boarding pass and I was indeed in the seat I was assigned – I was now in a seat that costs over $4,000 round-trip for a little more than a coach ticket – SWEET!!!!! In fact, the seat reclined to an almost flat position, which puts it into the Virgin America, $7,000+ R/T ticket category, so $4,000 would be a “relative: bargain. Usually to Europe I would buy coach and upgrade with points, or, years ago, clients would pay for overseas business class (not anymore!), but this was a new level in comfort.

Forget about the reclining bed/seat, the great amenity kit (From La Prairie), the on-demand movies – for me, it was all about the FULL COLOR WINE LIST AND FOOD MENU WITH 3-COURSE MEAL! ARE YOU SERIOUS??? WHO DOES THIS ANYMORE? I lit up the whole cabin with my smile when I saw the really well done wine list (champagne, NZ Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling Spatlese, aged Bordeaux, Sonoma Merlot actually good – yes, mark your calendars, I am praising Cali wine, fino sherry, and Port. Fino Sherry? Had I died and gone to heaven? Well, it was a bit pasada, or unintentionally oxidized, but it was the thought that counts.

The Taiwanese people are not huge drinkers to begin with – let alone wine drinkers, so I am sure the cabin staff and the other passengers were not used to seeing a giddy white boy sample as much of the wine as possible and look extremely impatient while waiting for them to refill my glass! But, I figured that since I would not be drinking a ton of wine while in Taiwan, I better make up for it now!

And the food – pretty good for an airline. I have a photo recap below, but here is the menu:

Course 1:

• Hors D’oeuvre: Salmon with Asparagus Roll and Roast Duck

Course 2: (Choice of the following)

• Seabass with Ginger Garlic Sauce
• Beef Fillet Roulade with Pesto
• Braised Pork Ribs with Spicy Sauce

Course 3:

• Cheese, Fresh Fruit, Pastry

1st Course: Salmon-wrapped asparagus and smoked duck

2nd Course: Braised Pork Ribs

Course 3: Dessert

As we descended into Taipei, I thought of how quickly the 13 hours had gone by. A 13+ hour flight seemed daunting before I left, but between the food, the comfortable cabin, and a few hours of sleep – the flight seemed to go by faster than some cross-country USA flights.

What happened that I got the seat? Who knows, maybe they bumped up some people to fill some of the other seats, or maybe it was just blind luck – either way, I am thankful I had the experience.

As I said goodbye to the friendly cabin staff, I wondered if I would be as lucky on my return flight in a few weeks.

Well, here’s hoping – stay tuned!

The Raton Colorao in full travel mode

Yes, I am off to Asia for close to three weeks! I will be spending most of the time in Taiwan and a few days after the new year in Singapore. I have always wanted to go to Asia, and have been planning a trip to Hong Kong next year for my 40th, but someone close to me recently said, “Why wait? You never know when you will get another chance.” So, time to put a few new stamps in my shamefully empty passport!!

Speaking of travel – I have been thinking about Anthony Bourdain a lot lately. Ever since I read Kitchen Confidential and A Cook’s Tour years ago, I was hooked. His shows from the Food Network and The Travel Channel are legendary (His Cook’s Tour shows from the Food Network have the pre-fame Bourdain edge to them that is missing a little bit from the newer shows). Ever since he got married, stopped smoking, had a kid, and made up with Rachael Ray – he has become a kinder, gentler soul (Except for ripping on Alice Waters of course). But one of the elements I found fascinating in watching his programming on TV was how much Asia affected and inspired him. He seemed to really change after visiting Asia.

But it makes me wonder – am I putting too much pressure on myself to have a good time? In my quest to have the “Bourdain-like” experience, will I try too hard or miss something along the way? I hope not, as I consider myself to be an experienced traveler – but Asia is another animal. Not since I lived and worked in Prague 9 years ago have I been to a country where I could not at least understand the language.

Instead of worrying about that, I think I will just channel some of Bourdain’s thoughts from the opening of his old “Cook’s Tour” show – it’s especially fitting since I live in NYC…

So I’m leaving New York City and hoping to have a few epiphanies around the world,
And I’m willing to go to some lengths to do that…
I am looking for extremes of emotion and experience -
I’ll try anything, I’ll risk everything, I have nothing to lose

Photo from Travel Channel

One of Bourdain’s mantras that has always stuck with me is that “Travel Changes People.” I wholeheartedly agree with that. I was going in a completely different direction in life until I started traveling. I grew up in Delaware – enough said? I took my first flight at 21 and did not get a passport until I was 26. Once I started traveling overseas I felt my mind open up in ways I never thought possible. I started eating foods that I only wish my late Grandmother Beverly could see me eat now – the, let’s call them “exotic foods” (Bev, I am sorry I never tried these things more while you were alive – I can only hope you are proud of me now). And wine – well, let’s just say that if it were not for travel to Europe, I would not be the wine person I am today.

I think the passage that gets to my heart the most is at the end of the No Reservations Malaysia episode, where at the end, while contemplating his journey Bourdain says:

Travel isn’t always pretty, it isn’t always comfortable
Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart
But that’s ok – the journey changes you
IT SHOULD CHANGE YOU
It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness,
in your heart, and on your body
You take something with you…
And hopefully you leave something good behind

To me, this passage the essence of travel, this is why I travel, and this is why I consider myself to be a traveler – not a tourist. I want to experience it all – the good, the bad, the uncomfortable situations – because it’s our experiences be it travel, work, relationships, and leisure that make us who we are.

After all, we only get one chance at life – and regrets are for losers…

Travel…I would probably do it for a living if I could. Then again, most of my professional career as a consultant has had airplanes and hotels involved. No, there is something deeper to travel – when you start to crave it – start to need it, start to wonder what to do with yourself when you are not doing it…

So it came to a bit of a surprise to me a few weeks ago when I was reminded (conveniently by me) how long it had been since I had taken a trip where I needed my passport. Sure, I had been back and forth between San Francisco and New York PLENTY of times – plus lots of trips to hotspots like Charlottesville, VA and Newark, DE. But last month, when reminded of my 3-year anniversary of leaving what was supposed to be my “career defining job – or CDJ” (more on that another time), it really hit me. Six months before I left the CDJ, the company brought in post office representatives to assist employees who traveled a lot in renewing (or heaven forbid getting) their passport. I happily renewed my passport and immediately started dreaming of where I could go. Right…

Needless to say, in the last 3 1/2 years, the only time I have used my passport was for a Sherry certification course in Vancouver – as in Canada – as in – DOES NOT COUNT.

What was happening to me? Was I becoming one of “those people” who I make fun of? I had to take a long look in the mirror and remind myself of who I was and why I loved to travel. I have worked and lived in many cities all over the world, and the fact that I have not been overseas in over 4 years made my stomach turn.

So, computer and credit card in hand – I made the leap…the leap to go where I have never been…the leap for a new experience.

Where will I be going? Stay tuned…